Day Two, Sunday, March 3rd: Fat Hammy Hands Day

It is another beautiful blue sky sunny day in Sevilla. Randy is up around 07:00 and Lana continues her deep sleep on our king size bed with separate duvet covers. Our NY Times newspaper has arrived outside our suite. Randy is updating our blog from day one and easy for Lana to stay sleeping as I am in a separate room and divided by a door.

We have two main goals for today. First being a 'free' walking tour that begins at 10:00 and at 16:15 is the Real Betis vs Getafe La Liga football (soccer) match at the local stadium. It will be a busy day with lots of walking and glorious warm sun the entire day.

Unfortunately, we are in a little bit of a rush early this morning as we head downstairs to the restaurant in our hotel for our complimentary buffet breakfast. We don't have much time before we need to walk 10 minutes to Plaza Nueva and meet up with our guide. The breakfast buffet is overwhelming (in a good way) with the choices of hot and cold and everything in between! So many decisions inclusive of sweet and savoury. For sweet there was pancakes, crepes, waffles and many other goodies too numerous to list. You can ask for your eggs to be specially made. Lana learned not to leave her toast unattended though as it disappeared! We both filled up as best as we could in our limited time. We can't be late for the walking tour as they usually leave promptly on time!

Breakfast buffet table: looks like an actual bee's honeycomb and you can help yourself to honey. 

We arrive at Plaza Nueva just before 10:00 and there are many people waiting as well. ** Hey, both Lana and I are wearing shorts! Not many people on these tours are wearing shorts despite the weather forecast of mid-20s temperatures. **  Thankfully, from this large crowd there are only six other people in the english speaking group. Our guide is Aitor with Sevilla Free Walking Tour. Scheduled for two hours. 

Our first stop is for Aitor to cover the history of Sevilla going back over the last two thousand years. As usual, I took my note pad so I could better remember particular details better and to help identify our pictures later. 

• Sevilla's first real organized semblance of a city was courtesy of the Romans and with that the famous Julius Caesar managed this city before he became the Emperor of Rome
• The Moors became the rulers for over 500 years 
• The Moors were defeated by the army of the Castilla who dominated the northern part of Spain at that time
• Sevilla gained major prominence after Christopher Columbus discovered the Americas and the plundering armies and private companies used Sevilla as their port of choice
• Seems weird as Sevilla is 80 kms inland from the Mediterranean Sea, but this was a benefit as it kept their ships safe as a river is easier to control and guard than an open sea port
• After the Moors were defeated in the 1200s there was the ongoing resentment by the Christian rulers of this Muslim domination and influence
• With Sevilla being the port for the trade and plundering of the Americas it made the city super wealthy and in many ways the richest city in Europe for that time
• We learned much about the diverse architecture of this city which can be traced back to the Moors and then the Christian rulers/culture that blended with the original heritage

This really is a special city for Spain and for Europe given the incredible influence of the earlier Moors and their Muslim ways. It explains the unique architecture and art you find quite easily in this old section of modern Sevilla. More information to follow with the pictures. 

Sevilla City Hall with its unfinished facade seen on the right. The King had run out of money to finance it. 

Cathedral Tower (Giralda) which provides the highest vantage point in the city. The Cathedral is the central highlight of the city. It was built as a mosque in the 12th Century by the Moors and the tower used by the Muslims to call everyone to prayer five times a day. Once the Catholics took over they built onto it and raised it higher. They retained the Muslim beginnings of this edifice. There are only 17 steps in this but mostly ramps to walk to the top. 

Cathedral building with a mix of materials stone on the left, brick on the right. Stone was used by the Christian builders and brick used by the Muslim builders. One interesting aspect of this part of the building is the very basis is actually Roman stones the Muslims had scrounged. 

More mixed materials and design on the Cathedral. Such a blend of different architecture but given it took 500 years to complete the structure there were so many different styles applied to it. This is mostly on the outside as the inside of the cathedral does not have as much diversity. 

Yup--still Cathedral with yet more Goth type design. 

The symbol of Seville which means "Sevilla never abandons me" or as an acronym NO DO. The figure eight is actually a symbol that means abandon. The story behind this is that King Alphonso was being pursued by his son who wanted to be the ruler of the kingdom. The only city that offered the King refuge was Sevilla so they never "abandoned" him. 

The angel on top of the Cathedral. 

St. Paul's hand holding a key at the Forgiveness Gate of the Cathedral. The Forgiveness Gate was utilized during the infamous Spanish inquisition which involved the Catholics targeting specific individuals. The accused were given a chance to seek forgiveness at this gate before being interrogated and then killed. Ironically, the Forgiveness Gate was originally a Muslim entrance. 

Ornate door at the Forgiveness Gate. The traders that controlled the Americas trade used the inside of this part of the cathedral until they were kicked out for using 'sacred' territory.

The Forgiveness Gate--the earlier picture of St. Paul's hand is part of the statue on the left. As you can see from the top of the gate the designs are clearly Moorish. The door/gate itself is from the Moor times. 

Our tour group went into the original main square of the old area of Sevilla. There are three towers in this area significant of the ruler, the religion and the market. There are 9 million documents from the era where the Americas trade was the sole financial driver. So there is a building that is now an archives. 

We stopped at our hotel! Our guide explained that the hotel was built for the 1929 Exposition as a residence for government officials who were managing the exposition. Later it became the famous hotel and landmark in Sevilla. The architecture is Andalucian style. What is Andalucian architectural style? There are five elements: (1) columns (2) bricks (3) iron (4) wood (5) tiles (ceramic). 

Our hotel is the most expensive in Sevilla. In terms of Europe it ranks 45th. Our guide indicated that during the prime season rooms can go for over a $1000 per night. Fortunately, we are staying here using points!

 The north tower at the Plaza de Espana. This was the last stop of our two hour tour. We learned the semi-circle shape of the building that dominates the plaza was on purpose. The Exposition was meant to reconcile the Spanish with their South American colonies who had rebelled some time before this. The Exposition was poorly attended given 1929 was an economic hardship for European countries. 

The Golden Tower at the river port in Sevilla--3 distinct sections that have been added over time. There are three legends of how it came to have the title Golden Tower. The origin of the building is Muslim. Located beside the river. 

The entrance at the Royal Tobacco Factory. We learned that during the Americas period that Sevilla sold 95% of the tobacco used in Europe! Soldiers protected this factory. Gypsy women rolled the cigarettes. 

  

 Insignia at the Royal Tobacco Factory in Sevilla. The lion is the emblem of the Castillas that were the rulers of most of Spain during the early times. 

Close up of the Tobacco Factory archway

View through the key hole of the Gate into the Factory which is now the University of Sevilla. 

Small alter to the Virgin Mary for protecting the city of Sevilla. 

Following the conclusion of our awesome walking tour, we decided to head back to our room to pick up some things and then navigate to a tapas joint located in the older section of Sevilla. Bar Casá Placido is our lunch place. We checked the menu and the fact they had an outdoor table available so that is our lunch place. 

Albondigas (Spanish meatballs)--very tasty!!

Jamón Iberico de Bellota (Iberico ham) and a glass of Rosé (Rosado) for Randy. Always comes with bread. Delicious! I ordered a glass of white wine (Orofiel - Verdejo) for 1.90 Euros and it was good as well. 

At Bar Casá Placido for lunch. A fellow showed up to play a guitar and then try to collect money from the diners. This is common in this area. Very narrow lanes here so walkers were within inches of our table. Even though we were in the shade here it is still very warm. 

Churro Box shop where we purchased a Dolche Leche churro (dessert) for 3 Euros. Inside was filled with the sugary delight as well as the top. We sat on the stairs to eat this newly made churro and it was hot. Eventually I managed to discover my shorts were covered in the syrup that has somehow got outside the container. 

It is around 24 degrees Celsius and we will have a long walk (45 minutes) southward to the football stadium (Benito Villarmariñ). We walk for a ways along the river and then turn inland. We use my Google Maps app to ensure we get there. We don't really see the stadium until much closer. I am pretty confident we can purchase tickets at the gate rather than through scalpers or the internet re-sellers. The home team is Real Betis Balompié. This will be a La Liga game. The opposition is Getafe who are in 4th place. 

We arrive at the stadium and find the ticket booth. The cost is 60 Euros per seat and we will be sitting on the third tier (uppermost tier) near the goal line. We pay using our Visa card. The machine is passed under the window but only so far. We still need to sign the Visa receipt. The ticket information indicates FONDO section which doesn't really help. 

The area outside the stadium is dominated by green and white vertical striped jerseys and thousands of home fans. Many supporters milling about! It is a beautiful day and inside the stadium lots of sun and very hot. The stadium is made of concrete. Our seats are totally exposed to the sun and Lana fashions a hat out of her umbrella. Many Real Betis scarves in the crowd. Lots of families. Music is played during the player warm ups. All the seats are green! Lana indicates there are toilets but no toilet seats, no toilet paper nor paper towels. There are sinks but no soap. 

After the player warm ups the water sprinklers come on to wet the field. They do not sing the Spanish national anthem before the game. They do sing the Real Betis anthem though. Unfortunately for the home fans their team gives up 2 goals during the first half. When the ref blows the whistle to end the first half the fans are all jeering their players! We get in a line at halftime to buy two bottles of water and a bag of peanuts for 6 Euros. You cannot purchase any alcohol! Wow!

The second half was much better for the home team and for the game in general. Lots of action at both ends. Real Betis scores a goal to make it 1-2 and their second goal is disallowed due to offside so they lose. I love the skill level of these footballers. Every player can dribble very well and some much better. Good passing and strategy. A joy for us to watch football at this high level. The fans are boisterous as we expected. 

Our ticket confirming Gate 19, Row 4 and Seat 202. We finally figure out FONDO section doesn't really offer any value. There is only one stairwell to our seats as each section is contained with no chance of navigating to other areas of the stadium. 

Candies and stuff you can purchase outside of the stadium and then take to your seat. 

Inside the stadium. The Real Betis home fan club section that will soon be filled up with a very loud home supporters. 

This might be one of the world's skinniest residential buildings!

We wait a while before leaving our seats to avoid some of the rush. It is still warm when the game is over a little after 18:00. It will be a long walk back to our home area. We stop at and sit at a bench eventually to figure out a restaurant for dinner. Back into our home neighbourhood but the restaurant we target is closed on a Sunday night. In fact more than one of our choices are closed. We navigate and find Antiguedades Bar on a narrow lane. 

Not too happy with the server, but we get our food and drink orders in. Our total bill is 24.60 Euros and we leave a 1.40 Euros tip. I have a glass (copa) of white wine for 2.60 Euro. We have a Ensalada Mixta (mixed green salad) for 7.50 Euro. A tapa Jamon Iberico, tapa Calameres Fritos (lightly fried octopus) and a tapa Pollo Plancha (pork loin) for 10 more Euro. Food was decent and we were seated outside. 

Lana's order of an apple cider (Ladron de Manzana) for 2.50 Euro. She loved the taste and we were both surprised we would find Cider in Sevilla.  

We were back to our room by 20:30 tonight. Lana sent me her pictures by email and I loaded the pics and when I went into the bedroom to ask her some questions around 21:30 she was fast asleep in bed with all the lights on and the television. Wow, she is so good at falling asleep anywhere and anytime. 

One perturbing thing for me is I cannot find my reading glasses. I believe I left them at the lunch place? I called them tonight, but nobody speaks english so they can't answer my question as to whether someone turned them in? We will need to take a walk there tomorrow... 

One really great thing is the prices for a glass of wine and beer is so cheap compared to Vancouver!

It is 22:20 and I am trying to update our blog for day two but I can barely keep my eyes open and my brain is not functioning! Time to get to bed and hope for a decent night sleep.

Our blog title is related to the fact that during a hot sunny day Lana's hands get swollen. In fact, I would say my hands get swollen as well. 

Total steps today = 25,000 and over 18 kms of walking so that is a pretty good day two.